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ACRYLICS: a Non-Firing (does not have to be fired in a kiln to bring out the true color) color product when applied to bisque can be sealed with a spray or brush on sealer.

ANTIQUE: A general term meaning to apply a color product to the piece and then using a quality paper towel or soft cloth (old t-shirts) wipe back the product from the piece to desired intensity leaving more color in the crevices and lighter on the ridges.

ANTIQUING: is done with opaques, metallics and translucents. When antiquing with opaques and metallics, be sure to work in small sections and wipe the color back quickly to prevent the color from drying before wiping back. Water can be used to help wipe back water-based and water- soluble color products. Antique Media and Antique Solvent can be used to help wipe back oil-based products.

Antiquing with oil based products (Kimple Intense Translucent) apply the color and wipe back using a good quality paper towel or soft cloth (old tees). Work on small areas at a time. If you have trouble taking the color back to the desired shading or back to white, use #763 Antique Media.

APPLY: Use a brush of appropriate size and shape (this will vary with color product and area of application) to move color product from pallet to the given ceramic area.

BC-BASE COAT: Use a quality large soft brush to apply 2 thorough smooth coats of given color product to bisque. It is essential that the piece is covered both completely and smoothly. Be sure to work out any brush strokes before the color product has dried

BISQUE Either from sculpted or cast items it is the stage at which the greenware has been cleanedand fired in a ceramic kiln to maturity. At this stage the item is ready to have a color product applied.

BLUSH: Very lightly dry brush indicated color product to create a very slight coloring effect. This term is most often used in reference to applying color to cheeks, above eyes, paw pads or tummies.

DETAIL: Carefully apply designated colors to the fine details given.

DOT: With the use of a stylus apply color in a uniform “swiss dot” pattern.

DB-DRY BRUSH: Dip a stiff round brush of appropriate size into the selected color. With a vigorous “figure 8” motion, wipe a great deal of the color product back out of the tip of the brush onto a paper towel. Stroke the brush rapidly back and forth across the texture of the ceramic piece. Your goal in dry brushing is to color the high ridges and details more intensely than the lower grooves. It is important to monitor the amount of color product on your brush at all times. Too much color can fill the grooves and not enough color can lead to a rough surface texture (chalky) from over stroking.

FLICK: Use a small detail brush to apply a small stroke of indicated color to area. Many times more than one small stroke of color will need to be “flicked” into an area to achieve desired effect.

FLOAT: Using a water moistened filbert or square shader brush, load one side of the brush with thinned color product. Stroke the brush briefly onto the pallet to slightly distribute color across the brush. Contact the ceramic piece with the color-loaded edge of the brush closest to the ceramic feature to be enhanced and make an even brush stroke following the contours. This technique may require some practice on a pallet or tile. The goal in floating is to use a shaded brush stroke, fading from an intense edge to a less intensely colored edge across the Brush to enhance shadows and contours on the ceramic piece.

GLAZES: A very broad term used to describe any color product that required firing in a kiln to bring the color to maturity and development of the true colors.

GREENWARE: A term used to descript earthenware that has been cast or sculpted and has NOT been fired to maturity. Hence the name “green” ware meaning not mature. At this point the item is very fragile and can be broken easily.

HL-HIGHLIGHT: This term is often used to indicate dry brushing or rouging with a VERY light hand. When you highlight with a color product, your goal is to gingerly dry brush or rouge this color in a designated area for a subtle coloring effect. The HL abbrevbiation is also used in techniques to designate eye highlights. To create an eye HL, apply a dot of given color using a stylus to the upper section of the iris. When highlighting eyes, be careful to place the dot of color in the same position and angle on both the left and right eye.

LINE: Using a detail brush, paint lines of color onto indicated areas.

PAINT: Use a brush of appropriate size to carefully and completely apply the indicated color products to designated areas.

PB-PAT BACK: After applying the indicated Intense Translucent, use a cloth (old t-shirt) or quality paper towel and wipe or pat back the applied color to desired intensity. If a less intense color is desired, use water or Antique Media to pat back color.

ROUGE: Use a quality paper towel or soft cloth (old t-shirt) wrapped around an index finger to apply an additional Intense Translucent color to an initial color, by tipping the towel/cloth wrapped finger with a small smount of the selected Intense Translucent from you pallet. Rub the color first onto a clean area of your pallet and then onto the desired area of the piece. The rouged color will HL the raised areas while leaving the crevices with initial color. This can be accomplished in small areas by using a Q-tip.

SHADE: This term is used to refer to the small stroke of color placed below the pupil in the iris of an eye. A thin slash of color should be placed along the contour of the pupil at a direct angle below a HL dot. The HL dot indicates a reflection of light from the eye surface and a slash of color below indicates the light shining through the pupil into the iris.

STIPPLE: Dip a small round dry brush into indicated color product and wipe some of the color back out of the brush onto a paper towel. Using a up and down “pouncing” motion apply the color to the piece.

STREAK: To create “streaks” of color on the indicated areas, apply color in random strokes using a small filbert brush loaded with color product.

TIP: Apply indicated color to the tip section of indicated ceramic piece. (Usually used in techniques concerning feathers.)

TOUCH-UP: Apply the given color onto the indicated area to conceal any incidental color overflows or strokes common in wetbrushing and dry brushing.

WB-WETBRUSH: Like dry brushing, this technique requires the wiping out of color product from a stiff round brush. However, in wetbrushing, you will leave a consideralbe amount of color in your brush. The goal in wetbrushing is to create a smooth intense color with less gradution from light to dark than in dry brushing. This technique is selected many times when the artist wants to bring a dark smooth surface up to a bright intensity without the “chalky-ness” often accompanying dry brushing.

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